Valladolid

Human traces around Valladolid go back to the Lower Palaeolithic, with Acheulean material recovered from the quaternary terraces of the River Pisuerga at Canterac. Settled occupation, though, only became stable in the Middle Ages, which is probably also when the town's name emerged.

Before the Romans arrived, the area was home to the Vaccei, a Celtic people who had migrated from northern Europe. Their most significant local settlement was Pincia, now identified with Padilla de Duero. For many years historians thought Pincia was Valladolid itself, until excavations proved otherwise. Roman remains have since turned up in the old city centre — near the church of La Antigua and along several streets including Angustias, Juan Mambrilla and Padilla — including mosaic floors. A Roman villa was also discovered near the Monastery of Nuestra Señora de Prado in the 1950s, and one of its marble and limestone mosaics, the Mosaico de los cantharus, now presides over the chamber of the Cortes de Castilla y León.

The medieval city took shape when Alfonso VI of León granted the lordship to Count Pedro Ansúrez in 1072. Ansúrez oversaw significant growth, building a palace and founding the Collegiate Church of Santa María and the church of La Antigua. Alfonso VIII declared it a royal city in 1208, and Alfonso X granted it the Fuero Real in 1255.

During the 13th and 14th centuries the city grew rapidly, aided by trade fairs and royal privileges. It served repeatedly as a royal residence and seat of the Cortes. Fernando III was proclaimed King of Castile in Valladolid's Plaza Mayor in 1217. Around 1300, Queen and regent María de Molina built a palace and made the city her residence. The university gained full status as a General Study by papal bull of Clement VI in 1346. Juan II of Castile — who was born, reigned and died here — called it the most notable town in his kingdoms.

The heart of Valladolid's monumental legacy is the Plaza de San Pablo, once the centre of court life under Philip III and the birthplace of his predecessor Philip II. The church of San Pablo dominates the square with a façade by Simón de Colonia in the Isabelline Gothic style — effectively a retable carved in stone. The church witnessed royal baptisms, including those of Henry IV, Philip II, Philip IV and Ana de Austria; the marriage of Maximilian II and María de Austria took place here, and Adriano de Utrecht received the cardinal's hat within its walls before becoming Pope Adrian VI.

Flanking the square are several key buildings. The Palacio de Pimentel, built in brick with a carpanel arch doorway and a Plateresque corner window, was where Philip II was born in 1527. Opposite stands the Palacio Real, completed around 1528 by Luis de Vega for Charles I. It served as residence for Charles I, Philip II, Philip III and later Napoleon Bonaparte during the War of Independence; Philip IV was born here in 1605. Its Renaissance courtyard features medallion decoration attributed to Esteban Jamete and shields of the territories of the Spanish Empire, with a neoclassical staircase added later by Ventura Rodríguez.

The Calle Cadenas de San Gregorio brings together the four buildings of the Museo Nacional de Escultura: the Colegio de San Gregorio, the church of San Benito el Viejo, the Palacio de Villena and the Palacio del Conde de Gondomar. Nearby, the birthplace of Romantic poet José Zorrilla operates as the Casa Museo de Zorrilla. The church of San Martín is notable for its slender Romanesque tower, while the Penitential Church of Nuestra Señora de las Angustias has a classical façade with monumental sculpture by Francisco del Rincón. Across from it stands the Teatro Calderón, opened in 1864 to a design by Jerónimo de la Gándara, with an Italian-style horseshoe auditorium decorated by the scenographer Augusto Ferri; each October it becomes the main venue for the SEMINCI film festival.

Valladolid's international airport (IATA: VLL), 10 km from the city in Villanubla, serves 10 domestic routes including Barcelona, Madrid, Málaga, Valencia and the Canary Islands, plus 5 international routes to London, Milan, Brussels, Düsseldorf and Paris. The Estación del Norte connects the city by Renfe train to León, Vitoria, Santander, Gijón, Madrid, Salamanca and Segovia; an AVE high-speed service runs to Madrid throughout the day with discounted fares available on the Renfe website. The bus station, close to the train station, is served primarily by Alsa, with a Madrid journey of approximately two and a half hours.