Jerez de la Frontera

Human settlement here goes back around 5,000 years, with Chalcolithic remains found during excavations at the alcázar as recently as 2009. The area's first major protohistoric settlement is attributed to the Tartessians, who founded Asta Regia — located at what is now the rural hamlet of Mesas de Asta, about 8 km from the city centre. That city covered 40 hectares, sat beside the ancient Lacus Ligustinus, had its own port, and served as a key control point for metal cargo moving from inland mines toward the coast and on to the eastern Mediterranean.

Phoenicians and then Romans followed; the Roman presence was intensive, and significant archaeological remains survive. After Rome, the territory passed through Visigothic, Muslim, Jewish and finally Christian hands — seven distinct cultures in total. Several of the city's churches were built directly over former mosques, a pattern that reflects this long sequence of occupation.

Jerez carries the old nickname "City of Convents," though religious communities have been leaving steadily in recent years. The old city core retains its Moorish street pattern, distinct from the more planned expansion around it. The Cathedral was formerly the Collegiate Church of San Salvador.

The Church of San Miguel, in the Gypsy quarter of the same name, is Gothic Isabelline and Baroque with a major altarpiece by Martínez Montañés and José de Arce. San Mateo is the oldest Gothic church in the city. The Carthusian Monastery of Santa María de la Defensión, late Gothic in origin, is considered the single most artistically important monumental complex in the entire province of Cádiz.

The Church of Santiago, declared a Historic-Artistic Monument and sitting in one of Andalucía's most flamenco neighbourhoods, was originally founded by Alfonso X. Several other churches — San Lucas, San Marcos, San Dionisio — were built over former mosques. The Convent of Madre de Dios is still known locally for its pastry-making.

Jerez sits on the main rail line between Seville and Cádiz (RENFE). Direct trains run from Seville's Santa Justa station, useful for travellers arriving via Seville airport. There are 2–3 trains a day to Madrid, though changing at Seville gives more options.

The Consorcio de Transportes Bahía de Cádiz runs a semi-regular bus from Jerez Airport into the city centre and on to Cádiz — see their timetable at siu.cmtbc.es. By road, the AP-4/E-5 motorway connects Jerez to Seville. There is no left-luggage facility at either the airport or the bus station.

The city has two ring roads. Eating is centred on bars and small shops called ventas; local staples include carrillada, tagarninas, tortillas de camarones, and caracoles in spring. Good tapas areas are Plaza del Arenal and Plaza Rafael Rivero.

Sherry originates here — worth trying.