Olvera

Olvera was a Moorish frontier fortress — its name possibly derives from the Arabic for olive grove — sitting on the border between the Nasrid Kingdom of Granada and the Christian kingdoms to the north. The castle and the rocky prominence it crowns were strategically vital: the town changed hands repeatedly during the long Reconquista. Castile finally took it in 1327 under Alfonso XI.

The town subsequently developed as an agricultural market, growing olives and cereals on the surrounding hills. In the 19th century the neo-classical church of La Encarnación was built on the highest point of the town, beside the castle ruins, giving Olvera its distinctive twin crown. Olvera is one of the anchor towns of the Ruta de los Pueblos Blancos, the network of whitewashed Cádiz villages that became famous in the 1970s through travel writing.

The Moorish castle at the summit is partly ruined but its keep survives and offers panoramic views over the Guadalquivir valley toward Ronda. The neo-classical Iglesia de la Encarnación beside it was begun in 1823 and dominates the skyline from every approach. Descending through the old town, the streets are characteristically narrow, steep, and whitewashed.

A section of the 11th-century Moorish walls survives at the base of the castle mound. The Via Verde de la Sierra, a converted railway line, passes through Olvera and runs south to Puerto Serrano through a series of viaducts and tunnels — it is one of the finest cycling and walking greenways in Andalucía, and Olvera has a rental station.

Olvera is 130 km east of Jerez on the A-384. There is a bus from Jerez and Ronda. The town is steep — be prepared for a serious climb to the castle.

Park in the lower town. Via Verde cycling and walking is extremely popular; bikes can be rented in Olvera. Spring and autumn are the best seasons; summer days are hot but the views are clearest.