Écija

Écija stands on the site of the Roman colonia Astigi, founded by Augustus around 14 BCE on an earlier Iberian settlement. Its position at the confluence of the Genil and Guadalquivir rivers made it a major olive oil distribution hub; excavations repeatedly uncover warehouses, roads, and fine domestic mosaics that once adorned wealthy Roman townhouses. After the Visigoth period and three centuries of Islamic rule under the name Istiyya, Ferdinand III of Castile reconquered the city in 1240.

The medieval town grew around its existing Roman grid, and in the 17th and 18th centuries Écija experienced a baroque building boom that produced its remarkable collection of church towers. The city suffered badly in the 1755 Lisbon earthquake, which destroyed much of the older fabric and paradoxically triggered the rebuilding that gave Écija its current character. It acquired nicknames on account of its summer heat — 'la sartén de Andalucía' (the frying pan of Andalucía) — and on account of its skyline — 'ciudad de las torres' (city of towers).

Écija's eleven baroque towers are the defining sight, each rising from a different parish church in a variety of styles from restrained Renaissance to exuberant Churrigueresque. The Torre de San Juan, Torre de Santa Bárbara, and Torre de los Jerónimos are particularly fine. The Plaza de España, rebuilt after the 1755 earthquake, is flanked by the 18th-century town hall and the church of Santa María.

The Palacio de Peñaflor is considered one of the outstanding baroque palaces in Andalucía, with a curved façade decorated with frescoes and a double staircase within. The Archaeological Museum, housed in the Palacio de Benamejí, holds a remarkable collection of Roman mosaics discovered during construction projects throughout the city, including the large 'Amazon' and 'Triumph of Bacchus' mosaics. The Roman circus and theatre, partially excavated beneath the modern city, have been uncovered and can be visited.

The Church of Santiago contains a triptych attributed to Pedro de Campaña. Wandering the historic centre on a weekday morning, when the towers catch the early light and the streets are quiet, is the essential Écija experience.

Écija is 87 km east of Seville and 50 km from Córdoba, both easily reached by motorway. The town is walkable once you are in the centre; parking is available around the perimeter of the old town. Summer temperatures are extreme (regularly topping 45°C in July and August) — plan to visit in spring or autumn, or confine sightseeing to mornings.

Most churches are open for a few hours each morning and around 6–8 pm. The Archaeological Museum is worth an hour.