Sitges

People have lived in Sitges since before the Neolithic, and an Iberian settlement is documented on what became the town's central hill. In the medieval period a castle stood on that hill — where the 1889 town hall now stands — first owned by the See of Barcelona before passing to Count Mir Geribert in 1041. The Sitges family, who took the town's name as their own, held the lordship from 1116 until 1308, when Agnés de Sitges sold her rights to Bernat de Fonollar, a knight close to King James II.

Fonollar and his wife are buried in the church of San Bartolomé and Santa Tecla. After Fonollar's line died out, the town passed to the Pia Almoina, a Barcelona charitable institution, which held it until 1814. Medieval life centred on the fortified hill of the Baluard, linked to the rest of town by a bridge over what is now Calle Mayor; three towers were built at different points of the town in 1303.

Economically, Sitges lived by viticulture — especially the malvasía grape, still used today — and from 1345 served as the commercial port for the Panadés region. From the 18th century, Sitges fishermen also established colonies along the Gulf of Cádiz coast, contributing to the founding of present-day Isla Cristina. In 1957 the Colombian Liberal and Conservative parties met here to sign the Pact of Sitges.

From Barcelona, the easiest way to reach Sitges is by RENFE commuter train: the journey takes around 35 minutes and costs €4.60. Direct trains leave from Passeig de Gràcia or Sants stations; from Plaça de Catalunya a change at Barcelona-Sants is required. Four trains run per hour — two fast, two stopping.

By car, the free C-31 winds along the cliff faces, while the C-32 toll motorway is faster and safer at around €5. The nearest airport is Barcelona El Prat (BCN); Reus/Tarragona (REU) is an alternative, reached by changing at Sant Vicenç de Calders or Vilanova i la Geltrú. Unlike nearby Barcelona, shops in Sitges are permitted to open on Sundays.

The local dish is xató — endive, cod, tuna, anchovies, aubergine and black olives in a sauce of chillies, almonds, garlic, oil, vinegar and hot peppers, typically followed by fricandó and coca de lardons with Penedès red wine. One recommended spot is Izarra Taberna Vasca on Carrer Mejor 22, serving Basque pinchos and made-to-order dishes. Malvasía, a delicate dessert wine whose name derives from the Peloponnesian port Monemvasía, is produced by the Hospital Sant Joan Baptista using traditional methods from its own vines; annual output is around 4,000 bottles and proceeds go to charity.