Baza

Baza, the ancient Iberian city of Basti, was the capital of the Bastetani tribe, one of the most powerful Iberian groups. The 1971 discovery of the Lady of Baza, a polychrome stone funerary sculpture of a seated woman dating to the 4th century BCE, revealed the sophistication of the local culture. After the Roman conquest Basti became Baza, an important road junction on the Via Augusta.

Under the Moors it was Baza or Medina Bayasa, capital of the eastern Granada taifa kingdom, and remained significant throughout the Nasrid period. Ferdinand and Isabella besieged it for nine months in 1489 before it fell; Queen Isabella is said to have herself directed the final stages of the siege. The town subsequently declined from its medieval importance but retained fine monuments.

The Collegiate Church of Santa María de la Encarnación, built on the site of the main mosque after the reconquest, is the principal monument — a large Gothic structure with a fine Renaissance portal. The Municipal Museum houses replicas of the Lady of Baza sculpture (the original is in Madrid) and objects from the Iberian cemetery where she was found. The excavated Iberian necrópolis, on a hillside outside town, can be visited and preserves the stone-cut chamber tombs.

The Moorish baths, among the largest surviving in Andalucía, are partially visible. The old town has a pleasant grid of streets with baroque mansions and the remains of Islamic-era towers. Baza is also known for its traditional ceramics — the local pottery style is sold in the market.

Baza is 110 km northeast of Granada on the A-92N and A-92. Buses from Granada take about 1.5 hours. The town is walkable.

The Iberian necrópolis is a 3 km drive from the centre; ask at the tourist office about access. The Municipal Museum and collegiate church are the main indoor sites. A half-day is adequate.