Besalú

Besalú's origins lie in its castle, documented from the early Middle Ages and built on a hill where the remains of the canonry of Santa María still stand. The town grew in importance after the death of Wifredo el Velloso in 902, becoming the capital of an independent county under its first count, Miró I the Younger. That independence ended in 1111, when Count Bernat III died without heirs and the county passed to the House of Barcelona.

The town's layout has changed over the centuries, but it still reads clearly as a medieval place. Key buildings survive: the bridge, the Jewish baths, the monastery church of San Pedro de Besalú, the church of San Julián (once a pilgrim hospital), the Casa Cornellá, the church of San Vicente, and the Gothic hall of the Palacio de la Curia Real. During the Peninsular War, Spanish forces under Juan Clarós won a battle here.

In 1966, Besalú was declared a national historic-artistic site. The town is currently working on archaeological excavations and signposting its historic centre for visitors.

Besalú sits about 25km west of Figueres, best reached by car via the N-260, turning off onto the C-66. Non-resident vehicles cannot enter the old town, so plan to park and walk. The historic streets are cobbled and can be awkward in heels, but otherwise straightforward on foot.

The medieval bridge is pedestrian only. As of January 2024, the town and its approach roads have 4G coverage from all Spanish carriers.